Idea for making soundproof door...

Discussion in 'rec.audio.pro' started by John Arkensaw, Aug 18, 2003.

  1. Higgs

    Higgs Guest

    I e-mailed Owens-Corning and they told me a place locally to buy thier
    version of the safe-n-sound door.
    If you are still in the market for one you might try and contact them.


    "Lee Liebner" <jazzman@oceanbridge.com> wrote in message news:<ieacnYLpA6ndntyiXTWJkw@comcast.com>...
    > "Higgs" <jamescashworth@yahoo.com> wrote in message
    > news:4e3cce4a.0308180338.4310bee7@posting.google.com...
    > > Earlier this week I also posted a question about a studio door and had
    > > the safe-and-sound door recommended. Searching on the net I cannot
    > > track down a price, or a local carrier of this door. Does any body
    > > know if Home-Depot carries them? I looked on their site and can't
    > > find them.
    > >
    > > I did run across this info from Owens Corning:
    > > http://pressroom.owenscorning.com/acoustic_door.html . Does the Owens
    > > door have any additional benefit over the "regular" safe-and-sound
    > > door?

    >
    > Both Lowes and HD carry the Premdor Safe-n-Sound solid core interior doors.
    > These are not as massive as flush solid-core exterior doors and are more
    > expensive.
    >
    > My attempts to get info from Lowes and Home Depot about the Owens-Corning
    > version of this same door, i.e. with their seals, ended in frustration. Too
    > much trouble. Solid core exterior is cheaper and more massive, but you will
    > have to create your own frame using thicker than 3/4" jambs because these
    > doors are heavier.
  2. ScotFraser

    ScotFraser Guest

    << Only one question remains for me about this - building the jamb for
    the door is no problem, except on the one side where the wall is stone
    - how do I attach it firmly to the stone? (to add the irritation,
    that is the side on which the door will be hinged!)
    >>


    You could trust it to a heavy duty construction adhesive, like Liquid Nails,
    but if you're putting the hinges on that side I'd sink some masonry anchors in
    the stone for a stronger jamb.




    Scott Fraser
  3. Mike Rivers

    Mike Rivers Guest

    In article <dc0dabe4.0308201703.3a574f33@posting.google.com> johnarkensaw@yahoo.com writes:

    > Since the concensus is that mass is what blocks sound, I thought
    > of making a custom door out of MDF? I would cut two sheets of MDF,
    > and screw them together for extra mass.


    When I was using a back room as a studio (the place where the
    musicians get in front of the mics), I quieted down the outside door,
    a just plain ordinary wooden door with a window in it, by screwing two
    layers of particle board to it on the inside. It blocked the window,
    but it also blocked the sound pretty well. Replacing the
    weatherstripping with material that wasn't 20 years old helped, too.
    And when I cleared out the room to make a private bedroom for the
    house sitter while I was on my Mackie excursion, I just unscrewed the
    panels and stored them in the garage.

    > Only one question remains for me about this - building the jamb for
    > the door is no problem, except on the one side where the wall is stone
    > - how do I attach it firmly to the stone? (to add the irritation,
    > that is the side on which the door will be hinged!)


    I'd guess that you'd attach a 2x6 to the stone using concrete anchors,
    and then attach the door frame to the wood. You need to caulk this
    very carefully so that you don't let sound through the irregular
    spaces between the wood and stone. If this is on the hinge side, you
    need to make the attachment very sturdy since it will be taking a lot
    of weight when the door is open. We use some neat anchors to attach
    antenna supports to concrete foundations. You drill a hole for anchor,
    smack it with a hammer, and a pod of expoxy breaks, fills the gap, and
    holds the anchor in place. Works fine, lasts a long time.



    --
    I'm really Mike Rivers - (mrivers@d-and-d.com)
  4. Rob Reedijk

    Rob Reedijk Guest

    David Bock <dbock@soundelux.com> wrote:
    > Put a sheet of lead between two doors if you really need isolation...


    Or how about an air-lock that decompresses between the doors when they are
    both closed?

    If money were no object...

    Rob R.
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