Problems with custom amp...

Discussion in 'rec.music.guitar' started by Jack A. Zucker, Aug 20, 2003.

  1. I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good deal.
    Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.

    Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations upon
    the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.

    This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't fit,
    power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply filter
    cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the dwell
    control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    yada-yada.

    I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to AB763
    values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on order
    to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.

    Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even if I
    do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space considerations...

    The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes and
    the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to touch.
    The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    itself.

    I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)

    If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer. anyone
    have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will

    P.S.

    I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent me
    a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...

    P.P.S.

    I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    again... :)
  2. Rick Ross

    Rick Ross Guest

    this is the guy from Vermont who builds them part time?

    "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    news:%UK0b.13015$2Y6.4057255@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good

    deal.
    > Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >
    > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    > 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    > Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations

    upon
    > the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >
    > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't

    fit,
    > power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply filter
    > cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the

    dwell
    > control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    > supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    > yada-yada.
    >
    > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to

    AB763
    > values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    > the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on

    order
    > to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    > sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    > there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    > and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    > board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    > There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    > opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >
    > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    > 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    > chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even if I
    > do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space considerations...
    >
    > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    > handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    > 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    > rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes and
    > the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to

    touch.
    > The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    > itself.
    >
    > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    > too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    > 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    > 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >
    > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.

    anyone
    > have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >
    > P.S.
    >
    > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    > him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    > but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    > overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent

    me
    > a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >
    > P.P.S.
    >
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    > again... :)
    >
    >
  3. Pt

    Pt Guest

    It might be a good idea to let everyone know just who this person or
    company is.
    It could prevent us from getting burnt.

    Pt
  4. Rick Ross

    Rick Ross Guest

    Winnie? or something like that? I think that's the guy...


    "Pt" <peatea@yahoo.com> wrote in message
    news:spv6kvsun6e84cr30vpn7khmharsl992bs@4ax.com...
    > It might be a good idea to let everyone know just who this person or
    > company is.
    > It could prevent us from getting burnt.
    >
    > Pt
  5. Hey Jack,

    I don't get it... If you had even more problems w/ the first amp you bought
    why did you buy a second one?

    Gantt

    "Jack A. Zucker" wrote:

    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good deal.
    > Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >
    >
    >
    > P.S.
    >
    > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    > him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    > but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    > overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent me
    > a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >
    > P.P.S.
    >
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    > again... :)
  6. "Gantt Mann Kushner" <gizmo@his.com> wrote in message
    news:3F4382B6.D59F1E4E@his.com...
    > Hey Jack,
    >
    > I don't get it... If you had even more problems w/ the first amp you

    bought
    > why did you buy a second one?


    I exchanged the first one for the 2nd one.
  7. Wow, this is a really terrible story. I'm sorry you've had so much trouble,
    Jack.

    Regards,

    Margaret

    "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    news:%UK0b.13015$2Y6.4057255@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good

    deal.
    > Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >
    > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    > 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    > Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations

    upon
    > the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >
    > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't

    fit,
    > power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply filter
    > cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the

    dwell
    > control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    > supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    > yada-yada.
    >
    > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to

    AB763
    > values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    > the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on

    order
    > to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    > sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    > there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    > and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    > board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    > There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    > opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >
    > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    > 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    > chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even if I
    > do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space considerations...
    >
    > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    > handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    > 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    > rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes and
    > the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to

    touch.
    > The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    > itself.
    >
    > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    > too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    > 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    > 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >
    > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.

    anyone
    > have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >
    > P.S.
    >
    > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    > him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    > but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    > overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent

    me
    > a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >
    > P.P.S.
    >
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    > again... :)
    >
    >
  8. Tony Hwang

    Tony Hwang Guest

    Hi,
    Hmmmm, sounds like he knows a lot about amps. How come didn't he build
    them himself then rather than letting someone do it for him?
    What kind of tech would do that kind of shoddy job? Is he really
    qualified tech? And yet order another one after first disaster?
    Or am I missing something here?
    What a weird story!
    Tony

    Margaret Wilson wrote:
    > Wow, this is a really terrible story. I'm sorry you've had so much trouble,
    > Jack.
    >
    > Regards,
    >
    > Margaret
    >
    > "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    > news:%UK0b.13015$2Y6.4057255@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    >
    >>I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good

    >
    > deal.
    >
    >>Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >>
    >>Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    >>375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    >>Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations

    >
    > upon
    >
    >>the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >>
    >>This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't

    >
    > fit,
    >
    >>power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply filter
    >>cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the

    >
    > dwell
    >
    >>control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    >>supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    >>yada-yada.
    >>
    >>I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to

    >
    > AB763
    >
    >>values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    >>the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on

    >
    > order
    >
    >>to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    >>sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    >>there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    >>and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    >>board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    >>There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    >>opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >>
    >>Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    >>500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    >>chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even if I
    >>do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space considerations...
    >>
    >>The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    >>handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    >>375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    >>rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes and
    >>the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to

    >
    > touch.
    >
    >>The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    >>itself.
    >>
    >> I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    >>rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    >>too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    >>350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    >>350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >>
    >>If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    >>rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    >>rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.

    >
    > anyone
    >
    >>have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >>
    >>P.S.
    >>
    >>I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    >>him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    >>but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    >>overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent

    >
    > me
    >
    >>a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >>
    >>P.P.S.
    >>
    >>I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    >>again... :)
    >>
    >>

    >
    >
    >
  9. Steve Modica

    Steve Modica Guest

    The cold solder joint thing makes me think the amp tech doesn't know
    what he's doing. What amp tech can't solder correctly?

    Tony Hwang wrote:
    > Hi,
    > Hmmmm, sounds like he knows a lot about amps. How come didn't he build
    > them himself then rather than letting someone do it for him?
    > What kind of tech would do that kind of shoddy job? Is he really
    > qualified tech? And yet order another one after first disaster?
    > Or am I missing something here?
    > What a weird story!
    > Tony
    >
    > Margaret Wilson wrote:
    >
    >> Wow, this is a really terrible story. I'm sorry you've had so much
    >> trouble,
    >> Jack.
    >>
    >> Regards,
    >>
    >> Margaret
    >>
    >> "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    >> news:%UK0b.13015$2Y6.4057255@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    >>
    >>> I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good

    >>
    >>
    >> deal.
    >>
    >>> Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >>>
    >>> Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style
    >>> amp.
    >>> 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    >>> Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations

    >>
    >>
    >> upon
    >>
    >>> the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >>>
    >>> This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't

    >>
    >>
    >> fit,
    >>
    >>> power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply
    >>> filter
    >>> cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the

    >>
    >>
    >> dwell
    >>
    >>> control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    >>> supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    >>> yada-yada.
    >>>
    >>> I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to

    >>
    >>
    >> AB763
    >>
    >>> values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating
    >>> and
    >>> the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on

    >>
    >>
    >> order
    >>
    >>> to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    >>> sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    >>> there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high
    >>> chassis
    >>> and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in
    >>> the
    >>> board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    >>> There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on
    >>> the
    >>> opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >>>
    >>> Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find
    >>> 47uf
    >>> 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    >>> chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even
    >>> if I
    >>> do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space
    >>> considerations...
    >>>
    >>> The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    >>> handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them.
    >>> It's a
    >>> 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    >>> rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the
    >>> tubes and
    >>> the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to

    >>
    >>
    >> touch.
    >>
    >>> The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    >>> itself.
    >>>
    >>> I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    >>> rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a
    >>> tad
    >>> too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    >>> 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    >>> 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >>>
    >>> If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    >>> rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    >>> rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.

    >>
    >>
    >> anyone
    >>
    >>> have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >>>
    >>> P.S.
    >>>
    >>> I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got
    >>> from
    >>> him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this
    >>> amp
    >>> but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including
    >>> fedex
    >>> overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he
    >>> sent

    >>
    >>
    >> me
    >>
    >>> a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >>>
    >>> P.P.S.
    >>>
    >>> I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    >>> trolling
    >>> again... :)
    >>>
    >>>

    >>
    >>
    >>

    >



    --
    Steve Modica
    "Give a man a fish, and he will eat for a day, hit him with a fish and
    he leaves you alone" - me
  10. Jack A. Zucker wrote:
    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good deal.
    > Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >
    > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    > 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    > Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight variations upon
    > the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >
    > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that didn't fit,
    > power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply filter
    > cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the dwell
    > control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    > supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    > yada-yada.
    >
    > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to AB763
    > values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    > the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on order
    > to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    > sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    > there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    > and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    > board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    > There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    > opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >
    > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    > 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    > chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even if I
    > do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space considerations...
    >
    > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    > handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    > 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    > rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes and
    > the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to touch.
    > The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    > itself.
    >
    > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    > too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    > 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    > 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >
    > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer. anyone
    > have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >
    > P.S.
    >
    > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got from
    > him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    > but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including fedex
    > overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he sent me
    > a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >
    > P.P.S.
    >
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    > again... :)
    >
    >



    It's probably a good idea to get tough with this "amp builder", there
    are recourses. My guess would be he doesn't want bad publicity &/or an
    investigation into his "business", so I'd make some threats along those
    lines & see if you can get a refund.

    There's really nothing more aggravating (or time consuming) than trying
    to fix what someone elsa has botched --- I'd save that as a last resort
    if I were you. Keeping quiet about it & fixing it yourself is just going
    to help this guy go on ripping people off.

    Good luck,

    Cat
  11. thom_j.

    thom_j. Guest

    "Jack A. Zucker" wrote:
    > P.P.S.
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of trolling
    > again... :)


    Could you elaborate please? :8^)'....
  12. ryanm

    ryanm Guest

    "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    news:%UK0b.13015$2Y6.4057255@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good

    deal.
    > Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >

    Sounds like you should've built your own amp. It would've cost less, no
    shipping, and you could've made sure everything worked the way you want it
    to...

    ryanm
  13. Tony Hwang

    Tony Hwang Guest

    Hi,
    If he starts fixing builder's mess, it could be negative thing.
    The builder can blame him saying you messed up the amp I built.
    Tony

    Catalina Thunders wrote:

    >
    >
    > Jack A. Zucker wrote:
    >
    >> I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good
    >> deal.
    >> Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you pay for.
    >>
    >> Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style amp.
    >> 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes, big BF
    >> Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight
    >> variations upon
    >> the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >>
    >> This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that
    >> didn't fit,
    >> power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of screen supply
    >> filter
    >> cap not connected, cold solder joints, non shielded wires going to the
    >> dwell
    >> control (causing squealing), power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power
    >> supply and screen grid caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V,
    >> yada-yada.
    >>
    >> I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to
    >> AB763
    >> values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer overheating and
    >> the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of 350V 100uf caps on
    >> order
    >> to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original value was 47uf) but I'm not
    >> sure how I'll fit them in because they are currently on the board and
    >> there's not room for 4, side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis
    >> and the board is .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the
    >> board and stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    >> There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the
    >> opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >>
    >> Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find 47uf
    >> 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside the
    >> chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and even
    >> if I
    >> do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space
    >> considerations...
    >>
    >> The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made by
    >> handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them. It's a
    >> 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A on the
    >> rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on the tubes
    >> and
    >> the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is almost too hot to
    >> touch.
    >> The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer
    >> itself.
    >>
    >> I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    >> rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a tad
    >> too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent quality
    >> 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA, sec.
    >> 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >>
    >> If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    >> rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    >> rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.
    >> anyone
    >> have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I will
    >>
    >> P.S.
    >>
    >> I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got
    >> from
    >> him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned this amp
    >> but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps) including
    >> fedex
    >> overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a deal where he
    >> sent me
    >> a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp myself...
    >>
    >> P.P.S.
    >>
    >> I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    >> trolling
    >> again... :)
    >>
    >>

    >
    >
    > It's probably a good idea to get tough with this "amp builder", there
    > are recourses. My guess would be he doesn't want bad publicity &/or an
    > investigation into his "business", so I'd make some threats along those
    > lines & see if you can get a refund.
    >
    > There's really nothing more aggravating (or time consuming) than trying
    > to fix what someone elsa has botched --- I'd save that as a last resort
    > if I were you. Keeping quiet about it & fixing it yourself is just going
    > to help this guy go on ripping people off.
    >
    > Good luck,
    >
    > Cat
    >
  14. LarryV

    LarryV Guest

    Winfield Thomas?

    Personally, I'd be pretty pissed with all of those issues. Sounds like
    there's no testing being done on the amps before they leave. Slap them
    together and hope they work. I've heard similar stories related to
    other "boutique" amp builders. Makes me believe that just because an
    amp is handbuilt doesn't necessarily insure that it's a quality amp.
    The amp that I would like to check out though is the Revelator from
    Gerlitz.

    http://www.gerlitzamps.com/

    These sound like really nice amps, and I received email that they will
    soon be posting sound samples at the site. Harvey has made some tweaks
    to make the amps even better.

    Pt <peatea@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:<spv6kvsun6e84cr30vpn7khmharsl992bs@4ax.com>...
    > It might be a good idea to let everyone know just who this person or
    > company is.
    > It could prevent us from getting burnt.
    >
    > Pt
  15. Richard

    Richard Guest

    larryv@rcn.com wrote...

    > Personally, I'd be pretty pissed with all of those issues. Sounds like
    > there's no testing being done on the amps before they leave. Slap them
    > together and hope they work.


    I had that happen with an expensive Two Rock a couple of years back.
    The second channel was shorted out. Last time I ever bit off on the
    "boutique mystique," I'll tell ya.

    --
    Afghanistan : Russia -> Iraq : USA
  16. "Catalina Thunders" <thundercatt13@nospamsbcglobal.net> wrote in message
    news:15O0b.2582
    > It's probably a good idea to get tough with this "amp builder", there
    > are recourses. My guess would be he doesn't want bad publicity &/or an
    > investigation into his "business", so I'd make some threats along those
    > lines & see if you can get a refund.


    Too late. We already negotiated. His offer was to return it minus shipping
    or accept the $200. I accepted the $200. I can't start insisting now that I
    want my money back when I've accepted it as-is. He could do that in good
    faith but he won't.

    Jaz
  17. Greg D

    Greg D Guest

    Jack,

    That is just too much crap to go thru for a new amp. I complaiend aobut
    my new amps when I had to swpa out a speaker or th preamp tubes, but what
    you are going through - whew...

    Greg

    > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good
    > deal. Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you
    > pay for.
    >
    > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style
    > amp. 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes,
    > big BF Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight
    > variations upon the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >
    > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that
    > didn't fit, power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of
    > screen supply filter cap not connected, cold solder joints, non
    > shielded wires going to the dwell control (causing squealing), power
    > tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power supply and screen grid caps rated
    > at 450V though they are seeing 475V, yada-yada.
    >
    > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to
    > AB763 values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer
    > overheating and the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of
    > 350V 100uf caps on order to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original
    > value was 47uf) but I'm not sure how I'll fit them in because they are
    > currently on the board and there's not room for 4, side by side or 2
    > stacked (it's a 2" high chassis and the board is .75" up from the
    > bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the board and stack the caps using
    > cable ties and RTV to hold them together. There's no room under the
    > chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the opposite underside of
    > the chassis from the power tranny.
    >
    > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find
    > 47uf 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside
    > the chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and
    > even if I do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space
    > considerations...
    >
    > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made
    > by handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them.
    > It's a 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A
    > on the rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on
    > the tubes and the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is
    > almost too hot to touch. The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know
    > know it's the transformer itself.
    >
    > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a
    > tad too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent
    > quality 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA,
    > sec. 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @
    > 4.0a ct)
    >
    > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.
    > anyone have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I
    > will



    >
    > P.S.
    >
    > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got
    > from him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned
    > this amp but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps)
    > including fedex overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a
    > deal where he sent me a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp
    > myself...
    >
    > P.P.S.
    >
    > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    > trolling again... :)
    >
    >
  18. Well,

    What can I do?!? Even though I agree it's a total ripoff, it's not out of
    the ordinary for an amp maker to charge you shipping when you return an
    item. I pointed out to this guy that it wasn't just that I didn't like it or
    that I changed my mind. This thing had VERY serious design problems. He was
    non-plussed. My choice was keep it and the $200 or send it back minus all
    the shipping which came to a considerable amount because the first one was
    returned fed-ex next-day-air (at his request and promise to pay)...

    Anyway, we're way off topic. I'm trying to get opinions on how to fix the
    technical issues. The only reason I went into such detail is that the last
    time I tried to only disclose part of the information, I was accused of
    being a troll. (See my post about 6V6 tubes and the 5Y3 in a 6L6 amp for
    details) :)

    "Greg D" <oasysco@cox.net> wrote in message
    news:Xns93DDBC44DC916oasyscocoxnet@68.1.17.6...
    > Jack,
    >
    > That is just too much crap to go thru for a new amp. I complaiend aobut
    > my new amps when I had to swpa out a speaker or th preamp tubes, but what
    > you are going through - whew...
    >
    > Greg
    >
    > > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good
    > > deal. Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you
    > > pay for.
    > >
    > > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style
    > > amp. 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes,
    > > big BF Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight
    > > variations upon the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    > >
    > > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that
    > > didn't fit, power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of
    > > screen supply filter cap not connected, cold solder joints, non
    > > shielded wires going to the dwell control (causing squealing), power
    > > tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power supply and screen grid caps rated
    > > at 450V though they are seeing 475V, yada-yada.
    > >
    > > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to
    > > AB763 values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer
    > > overheating and the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of
    > > 350V 100uf caps on order to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original
    > > value was 47uf) but I'm not sure how I'll fit them in because they are
    > > currently on the board and there's not room for 4, side by side or 2
    > > stacked (it's a 2" high chassis and the board is .75" up from the
    > > bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the board and stack the caps using
    > > cable ties and RTV to hold them together. There's no room under the
    > > chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the opposite underside of
    > > the chassis from the power tranny.
    > >
    > > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find
    > > 47uf 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside
    > > the chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and
    > > even if I do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space
    > > considerations...
    > >
    > > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made
    > > by handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them.
    > > It's a 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A
    > > on the rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on
    > > the tubes and the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is
    > > almost too hot to touch. The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know
    > > know it's the transformer itself.
    > >
    > > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a
    > > tad too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent
    > > quality 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA,
    > > sec. 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @
    > > 4.0a ct)
    > >
    > > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.
    > > anyone have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I
    > > will

    >
    >
    > >
    > > P.S.
    > >
    > > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got
    > > from him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned
    > > this amp but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps)
    > > including fedex overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a
    > > deal where he sent me a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp
    > > myself...
    > >
    > > P.P.S.
    > >
    > > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    > > trolling again... :)
    > >
    > >

    >
  19. NDB

    NDB Guest

    Hi Jack,

    You've been exceptionally patient throughout this whole process. I think
    you are doing everyone a service by letting us know your experiences.

    Thanks,

    Nenshad


    --

    -------------------------------------------------------------
    A One-Man Jazz Band? Believe it!
    http://www.cosmiccontamination.com
    -------------------------------------------------------------


    "Jack A. Zucker" <jaz@jackzucker.com> wrote in message
    news:OPS0b.13177$2Y6.4155131@news2.news.adelphia.net...
    > Well,
    >
    > What can I do?!? Even though I agree it's a total ripoff, it's not out of
    > the ordinary for an amp maker to charge you shipping when you return an
    > item. I pointed out to this guy that it wasn't just that I didn't like it

    or
    > that I changed my mind. This thing had VERY serious design problems. He

    was
    > non-plussed. My choice was keep it and the $200 or send it back minus all
    > the shipping which came to a considerable amount because the first one was
    > returned fed-ex next-day-air (at his request and promise to pay)...
    >
    > Anyway, we're way off topic. I'm trying to get opinions on how to fix the
    > technical issues. The only reason I went into such detail is that the last
    > time I tried to only disclose part of the information, I was accused of
    > being a troll. (See my post about 6V6 tubes and the 5Y3 in a 6L6 amp for
    > details) :)
    >
    > "Greg D" <oasysco@cox.net> wrote in message
    > news:Xns93DDBC44DC916oasyscocoxnet@68.1.17.6...
    > > Jack,
    > >
    > > That is just too much crap to go thru for a new amp. I complaiend aobut
    > > my new amps when I had to swpa out a speaker or th preamp tubes, but

    what
    > > you are going through - whew...
    > >
    > > Greg
    > >
    > > > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a good
    > > > deal. Let me just say that folks were right and that you get what you
    > > > pay for.
    > > >
    > > > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel style
    > > > amp. 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7 tubes,
    > > > big BF Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada. Slight
    > > > variations upon the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    > > >
    > > > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that
    > > > didn't fit, power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of
    > > > screen supply filter cap not connected, cold solder joints, non
    > > > shielded wires going to the dwell control (causing squealing), power
    > > > tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power supply and screen grid caps rated
    > > > at 450V though they are seeing 475V, yada-yada.
    > > >
    > > > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components to
    > > > AB763 values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer
    > > > overheating and the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of
    > > > 350V 100uf caps on order to run in a totem-pole arrangement (original
    > > > value was 47uf) but I'm not sure how I'll fit them in because they are
    > > > currently on the board and there's not room for 4, side by side or 2
    > > > stacked (it's a 2" high chassis and the board is .75" up from the
    > > > bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the board and stack the caps using
    > > > cable ties and RTV to hold them together. There's no room under the
    > > > chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps on the opposite underside of
    > > > the chassis from the power tranny.
    > > >
    > > > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to find
    > > > 47uf 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can inside
    > > > the chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the chassis and
    > > > even if I do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side due to space
    > > > considerations...
    > > >
    > > > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's made
    > > > by handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares about them.
    > > > It's a 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the heater tap and 3A
    > > > on the rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes and a fan blowing on
    > > > the tubes and the transformer, it get so hot that the chassis is
    > > > almost too hot to touch. The fan keeps the tubes very cool so I know
    > > > know it's the transformer itself.
    > > >
    > > > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down the
    > > > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is a
    > > > tad too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent
    > > > quality 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X (120VA,
    > > > sec. 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a, Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @
    > > > 4.0a ct)
    > > >
    > > > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave bridge
    > > > rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be using the
    > > > rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340 transformer.
    > > > anyone have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should use google. I
    > > > will

    > >
    > >
    > > >
    > > > P.S.
    > > >
    > > > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I got
    > > > from him. The first one had even more problems. I could have returned
    > > > this amp but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways (for 2 amps)
    > > > including fedex overnight to get the first one back so we worked out a
    > > > deal where he sent me a $200 rebate and I agreed to fix the amp
    > > > myself...
    > > >
    > > > P.P.S.
    > > >
    > > > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    > > > trolling again... :)
    > > >
    > > >

    > >

    >
    >
  20. Greg D

    Greg D Guest

    Jack,

    I wish I could offer a solution, but all I can do is stand there and
    cluck my tongue - totally in sympathy with you.

    THe thing is hand-wired and if he has a schematic, you might try RonSonic
    (Ron Bales), Phil the AMp MEdic, or even LV over at AGA where I know you
    hang out as well. Has anybody in AGA been any help, Jack?

    THankfully, you know enough about circuits to have a fighting chance. Me?
    I don't know what I"d do other than bitch 'n moan a whole lot louder than
    you.

    Keep us posted.

    GReg

    > Well,
    >
    > What can I do?!? Even though I agree it's a total ripoff, it's not out
    > of the ordinary for an amp maker to charge you shipping when you
    > return an item. I pointed out to this guy that it wasn't just that I
    > didn't like it or that I changed my mind. This thing had VERY serious
    > design problems. He was non-plussed. My choice was keep it and the
    > $200 or send it back minus all the shipping which came to a
    > considerable amount because the first one was returned fed-ex
    > next-day-air (at his request and promise to pay)...
    >
    > Anyway, we're way off topic. I'm trying to get opinions on how to fix
    > the technical issues. The only reason I went into such detail is that
    > the last time I tried to only disclose part of the information, I was
    > accused of being a troll. (See my post about 6V6 tubes and the 5Y3 in
    > a 6L6 amp for details) :)
    >
    > "Greg D" <oasysco@cox.net> wrote in message
    > news:Xns93DDBC44DC916oasyscocoxnet@68.1.17.6...
    >> Jack,
    >>
    >> That is just too much crap to go thru for a new amp. I complaiend
    >> aobut my new amps when I had to swpa out a speaker or th preamp
    >> tubes, but what you are going through - whew...
    >>
    >> Greg
    >>
    >> > I bought this thing from a small amp builder. I thought it was a
    >> > good deal. Let me just say that folks were right and that you get
    >> > what you pay for.
    >> >
    >> > Anyway, it's basically a 50 watt Fender Reverb, single channel
    >> > style amp. 375-0-375 PT, GZ34 rectifier, 2 6L6, (2) AX7 and (2) AT7
    >> > tubes, big BF Bassman size output transformer, no choke, yada-yada.
    >> > Slight variations upon the AB763 circuit, minus the vibrato.
    >> >
    >> > This thing has been a nightmare from the beginning. Speaker that
    >> > didn't fit, power tranny center-tap not connected, ground side of
    >> > screen supply filter cap not connected, cold solder joints, non
    >> > shielded wires going to the dwell control (causing squealing),
    >> > power tranny getting EXTREMELY hot, power supply and screen grid
    >> > caps rated at 450V though they are seeing 475V, yada-yada.
    >> >
    >> > I've got everything fixed (including changing all audio components
    >> > to AB763 values). The outstanding issues are the power transformer
    >> > overheating and the underrated filter supply caps. I have a quad of
    >> > 350V 100uf caps on order to run in a totem-pole arrangement
    >> > (original value was 47uf) but I'm not sure how I'll fit them in
    >> > because they are currently on the board and there's not room for 4,
    >> > side by side or 2 stacked (it's a 2" high chassis and the board is
    >> > .75" up from the bottom. One idea is to cut holes in the board and
    >> > stack the caps using cable ties and RTV to hold them together.
    >> > There's no room under the chassi unless I want to mount the 4 caps
    >> > on the opposite underside of the chassis from the power tranny.
    >> >
    >> > Another option would be to play it close to the hilt and try to
    >> > find 47uf 500V caps or somehow try to fit an LCR 50uf/50uf 500V can
    >> > inside the chassis. Not sure I want to drill a huge hole in the
    >> > chassis and even if I do, I'd have to put it on the opposite side
    >> > due to space considerations...
    >> >
    >> > The other possibly larger problem is the power transformer. It's
    >> > made by handwound transformers.com. I've heard many nightmares
    >> > about them. It's a 375-0-375 tranny and it's rated for 6A on the
    >> > heater tap and 3A on the rectifier tap. Even at practice volumes
    >> > and a fan blowing on the tubes and the transformer, it get so hot
    >> > that the chassis is almost too hot to touch. The fan keeps the
    >> > tubes very cool so I know know it's the transformer itself.
    >> >
    >> > I tried putting in a weber copper cap to see if not drawing down
    >> > the
    >> > rectifier heater would make a difference. Since this transformer is
    >> > a tad too hot for my use, I think I may look into getting a decent
    >> > quality 350-0-350 transformer. Something like the Hammond 273X
    >> > (120VA, sec. 350-0-350, DC ma 110, Fil.#1(rct) 5.0v @ 2a,
    >> > Fil.#2(htr) 6.3v @ 4.0a ct)
    >> >
    >> > If I wanted to ditch the rectifier tube and go with a full wave
    >> > bridge rectifier (w/no centertap), In that case since I wouldn't be
    >> > using the rectifier tube I'd probably go with a 330-330 of 340-340
    >> > transformer. anyone have any recommendations? Yes, I know I should
    >> > use google. I will

    >>
    >>
    >> >
    >> > P.S.
    >> >
    >> > I don't want to go off on a tangent but this one is the 2nd amp I
    >> > got from him. The first one had even more problems. I could have
    >> > returned this amp but I would have been charged shipping 4 ways
    >> > (for 2 amps) including fedex overnight to get the first one back so
    >> > we worked out a deal where he sent me a $200 rebate and I agreed to
    >> > fix the amp myself...
    >> >
    >> > P.P.S.
    >> >
    >> > I hope this is enough information. I don't want to get accused of
    >> > trolling again... :)
    >> >
    >> >

    >>

    >
    >
    >

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